There’s of course no scarcity of Chinese food in Melbourne’s ever-evolving pot of culinary offerings. But those by the beach, in Brighton more specifically, are a little more rare.
Steer away from (or behind) Brighton’s epicentre of Church Street and you’ll find Gold Moon. A facade rich with bamboo guards the Chinese restaurant, which has taken up residence in what was an old La Porchetta.
Gold Moon is known among Brighton locals for its yum cha lunch special that runs for $25, seven days a week. In the kitchen is husband and wife duo Mr and Mrs Lian, a couple in their 60s who have been responsible for hand-making all of Gold Moon’s dumplings for the past two years; prawn and leek, pan-fried chicken dumplings, pork and prawn sui mai, BBQ pork buns, and sweet custard buns are among the collection.
Waiters walk around holding trays of the Lians’ creations, offering them to diners who can eat as much as they dare to fit in. But don’t be mistaken – Gold Moon is “not just about yum cha”, according to operations manager Jing Li (Maggie). Li runs the fort for owner and restaurateur Jessie Zhao, who also runs dining establishments in the Chinese cities of Wuhan and Shenzhen. “We draw on many elements and cuisines within China,” says Li.
Mrs Lian (pictured) and her husband Mr Lian hand-make all of Gold Moon’s dumplings. Source: Gold Moon
Chinese food varies vastly from province to province. Of course, there are nationally known dishes, but others that have formed within the borders, eras, histories and conflicts within each province – which is exactly what Gold Moon wants to highlight.
Apart from the Lians, there are two “specialty wok chefs” in the kitchen, as Li calls them. Jackie Yu and Henry Shi enable Gold Moon to extend beyond the yum cha realm. The duo cook up dishes like crab soups, Chongqing-style boiled fish with pickled vegetables, Canton-style ginger prawns with asparagus, spicy Sichuan beef, and port wine chicken (Yu’s signature dish). There is also fire spicy crab – crab that is wok-fried in its shell and then roasted in foil, drizzled with alcohol and lit when served. You won’t read about the dish’s theatrics on the menu – Gold Moon believes in the element of surprise.
To drink are teas imported from Hangzhou and Fujian provinces. Otherwise there is an extensive list of Australian, New Zealand and European wines to choose from, alongside Chinese whiskies if you want to get right into it.
Find a celebration of Chinese food, from northern cuisines to southern, like this crisp mixed vegetable roll, at Gold Moon. Source: Gold Moon
Gold Moon’s interiors are inspired by the Song Dynasty – one famous for its lavish and extravagant designs. You'll see this through the deep-toned timber used in custom-made chairs and chopsticks – both elements are made from the same wood. Gold accents chime in through the restaurant, from the cutlery through to the joinery.
Tables are generously sized, making them ideal for sharing dishes, while the restaurant itself also has plenty of breathing space for those with wheelchairs, walkers and prams to move around.
Gold Moon is open Mon 5:30pm - 10pm; Tue - Sun 11am - 3pm; 5:30pm - 10pm
3 Well St, Brighton VIC
