One of the oldest ice cream varieties in the world, made by hand according to an ancient Afghan recipe and mesmerising method, has landed in Sydney’s west.
in Rooty Hill, a restaurant that just opened earlier this year, is not only selling hand-made for people to try, it also has its very own Afghan ice cream expert who churns the dessert in front of diners for added appeal.
Qudratullah Haideri, a refugee aged over 50 years old who only arrived in Australia within the last year, is the restaurant’s key ice cream maker. Haideri tells SBS he spent the last 14 years making sheer yakh by hand.
“I make it with so many aspirations and so much love,” Haideri says.
“People come here now to try [this ice cream] as it’s something new. But in Afghanistan, this ice cream was something that had always, culturally, been there and people enjoyed it all the time.”
Haideri explains that when he works making ice cream at the restaurant, he feels a sense of purpose and joy. Every time he makes sheer yakh, the Afghan refugee remembers his homeland and gets to share a sense of national respect with diners.
“The food we make in Afghanistan is very authentic, and we eat it with love.
“I feel very proud when I make ice cream for the people who come here, especially when they taste it and say it’s good.”
'Cold milk' ice cream delights
Translated into English, means ‘cold milk’. The traditional street food dates back to Persia, 500 BCE, as does its method.
To make it, you need two distinct things: a cold, outer container to hold ice and salt, and an inner metal drum containing the ice cream's ingredients – milk, sugar and crushed almonds.
“When the ice and salt hit each other, they combine to form a dry ice of sorts,” says owner of Afghan Cuisine, Ali Rashidi. “This is what causes the milk mixture inside the drum to freeze.”
I make it with so many aspirations and so much love.
The maker must constantly twist the inner drum so that it creates friction with the ice resting just outside it. The maker then mixes the ingredients inside the drum, smearing it on the cold walls with speed to make it freeze. Ice cream then results.
Qudratullah Haideri serves a fresh bowl of traditional Afghan ice cream that he just churned by hand.
It’s believed that Afghan Cuisine is the only establishment in NSW that churns the ice cream on-site in front of customers, before serving it in a traditional style.
When you order a bowl (or take away cup), you’ll get a huge foundation of ice cream at the bottom topped with an impressive tower of pulled sheer yakh. Decorated with sprinkles of almonds and cardamom, the icy dessert reveals a distinctive sweet flavour that’s refreshing and deep.
“This ice cream is as close to its roots as possible,” says Rashidi.
When customers eat this ice cream, I want them to enjoy it. But I also hope that they’ll feel the beauty of Afghanistan.
Giving refugees a chance
Afghan Cuisine is a family-run business that proudly employs refugees from Afghanistan. Rashidi – a former refugee himself – came to Australia decades ago as a child. Haideri is his wife’s uncle. Also employed at the restaurant are his father-in-law who is the head chef and mother-in-law who works in the kitchen.
“I came to Australia as a refugee more than 28 years ago,” Rashidi says. “I know how important it is to be a refugee and to work. I understand that refugees just need to be given opportunities.”
Rashidi says he was delighted when he first saw Haideri make the ice cream. He knew that his unique skillset could help the new refugee to succeed in Australia. Rashidi also hoped that Australian diners could learn more about the beauty of Afghanistan’s culture by eating the ice cream.
“When customers eat this ice cream, I want them to enjoy it. But I also hope that they’ll feel the beauty of Afghanistan. Our ice cream brings people to the table to eat together. I just love it.”
