Where Musashi-koyama & Togoshi Ginza, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo, Japan
Why go? While these two nearby shopping districts may lack the glitter of busy Shibuya and the glamour of Harajuku, the traditional food havens are well worth delving into if you want to see how locals eat, shop, drink and sing the night away. Along Musashi-koyama’s one kilometre shogai (traditional shopping arcade), yakitori (grilled skewers), sushi, shabu-shabu (beef hotpot) and ramen joints sit alongside sweet shops, grocery stores, green tea stalls and local tofu makers. A 15 minute wander south leads to Togoshi Ginza, an open air shopping street that offers over 400 more shops and restaurants to explore.
Must eats Start with a yakitori snack at the east exit of the station at Toriyu. Here, no part of the chicken goes to waste; try smoky, grilled skewers of chicken meatballs, skin, liver and even the crunchy cartilage. Next, head to nearby Menya Ichizu. Not your typical ramen joint, this busy 10-seat restaurant is run by two French-trained chefs, and their menu shows. Using a traditional French onion stock as a base, their lighter-style ramen is topped with fennel, herbs and a soft poached egg. Also on the menu are confit pigeon and twice-cooked pork, as well as their popular curry ramen. Head further south to Togoshi Ginza for a sweet snack of taiyaki (fish-shaped red bean pancake) or karintō (deep-fried brown sugar candies). As the night creeps in, get lost in the laneways near Musashi-koyama station and try a hearty feast of chanko-nabe (sumo stew) in the traditional tatami mat restaurant Sai Kai, or visit one of the many ‘snack’ bars for the foamiest beer, kara-age (fried chicken) and some really bad karaoke.
If you only eat one dish Japan’s well-loved version of crème caramel, purin, can be easily scored at one of the many convenience stores that appear within every few steps in Japan. But the best in Tokyo, so locals say, can be found at Rosse, in-between Togoshi Ginza and Musashi-koyama stations. Here, a limited number of homemade purin are sold between 5pm—7pm each day, that is, if they don’t completely sell out beforehand. Locals will line up for hours to get their hands on this rich and creamy custard pudding, famous throughout Japan. If you’ve got the patience, get there at 5 o'clock on the dot, grab a coin (your token to six purin) and settle in for a mysteriously long - but very Japanese - wait. Traditional custard flavour is the local favourite, but they also offer sesame, chocolate, matcha and even cheese.
Must visits While strolling through Togoshi Ginza, be sure to stop by Matsuri, a little mochi cornerstore which often performs the mochi-tsuki (the mochi-making ceremony). Watch as the owners work together, one rhythmically pounding the hot steamed rice with the large, wooden mallet while the other’s quick hands deftly fold and knead the mochi into a smooth, sticky consistency. Fresh from the grinding stone, this mochi is warm and soft. A light dusting of soy bean powder adds just the right amount of toasted, nutty flavour.
Best food souvenirs Jars of local Japanese salt from Solco make a great gift or addition to your kitchens back home. Try the fine, pink granules of Okinawa’s Beni-sio salt, made with Okinawan sweet potato extract, or the punchy extra-concentrated offering from Tokyo’s volcanic Aogashima Island. If you’ve got time, try Solco's onigiri (rice balls) flavoured with your chosen salt, and don’t miss their famed salted caramel cake and salted soft serves.
Ramen at Menya Ichizu, Tokyo Source: Leigh Griffiths
Crème caramel (purin) from Rosse, Tokyo Source: Leigh Griffiths
Making mochi in Tokyo Source: Leigh Griffiths
Reasons to book a holiday
Culinary postcard: Tokyo, Japan
