People travel far and wide for the schnitzel with creamed spinach at . This continental European diner is an icon in Double Bay and has served home-style Hungarian food to Eastern Sydney locals since its establishment in 1958.
Back then, the suburb was a ghost town with three petrol stations, two pubs and one cafe serving coffee out of a jar, according to the family behind 21 Espresso. They credit their descendant – Hungarian immigrant Jansci (John) Schiffer – for giving Double Bay its cafe culture and introducing and the joys of Italian-style coffee.
“When my father took over the cafe and called it 21, every building in the street except the ones on the corner of New South Head Road were residential,” says George Schiffer, current owner of 21 Espresso and John's son. “Who knows what Double Bay would be today without 21 Espresso? The suburb grew around our cafe.”
The Schiffer family migrated to Sydney after the in 1956. Given Australia’s favourable climate, John was surprised to find no outdoor dining options and seized the opportunity to start a business.
Jansci (John) Schiffer opened 21 Espresso in 1958. Source: 21 Espresso
“My dad couldn't understand that in Australia, when it was 30 degrees, people sat inside,” George explains. “Whereas, in Hungary, they sat outside having coffee in the middle of winter when it was snowing.”
With the help of an Austrian business partner and a loan from the , John took over a site at 21 Knox Street. He imported one of the first Italian espresso machines, set up chairs and tables on the footpath (without asking the council’s permission) and named the cafe 21 Espresso. This was a fitting name, as it represents John’s birth year and the location's street number.
George was 12 when the cafe opened in 1958 and began work as a barista at 16. His son, Michael was the same age when John passed away. Due to complications, they ended up losing the cafe. But when George had the opportunity to reconnect with his father’s legacy in 2010, he bought back 21 Espresso with the help of Michael.
Even today, the cafe maintains its old-world charm and is a dining room away from home for European migrants and Eastern Sydney families and the wider Jewish community. These diners generally start their meal with a steaming bowl of soup including matzo dumplings, chicken noodles or Ukrainian borscht. Michael remembers sharing a bowl of soup with his grandfather after school, however, these days, is his pick: a Hungarian street food of freshly fried potato flatbread served with sour cream and garlic.
21 Espresso has been feeding diners for more than 60 years. Source: 21 Espresso
Mains are generous and comforting, such as veal , paprika chicken with (a gnocchi-like egg noodle), cabbage rolls stuffed with seasoned mince, and continental Frankfurt sausages served grilled or boiled with mashed potato.
A long-time favourite is 21 Espresso’s classic schnitzel of wiener (veal) or chicken, served with creamed spinach and fluffy mashed potato. Michael describes their schnitzel as “comfort food at its best” and recommends a zingy cucumber salad on the side.
21 Espresso's menu includes hearty dishes such as cabbage rolls. Source: 21 Espresso
“I could eat schnitzel for breakfast, lunch and dinner,” George says and laughs. “People ask me what the secret is, and the secret is that there isn’t any… We make it the basic, simple way with flour, eggs and breadcrumbs. We don't put anything on it. Instead, we provide two side dishes, more or less of your choice, so it's up to you what you put on it.”
21 Espresso actually serves schnitzels daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner, so you could follow George's lead. There’s also an indulgent dessert menu for the morning or afternoon tea rush. Go traditional with a freshly baked apple strudel, rum-spiked chestnut purée, or baked cheese noodles with raisins and sour cherry sauce. George’s favourite is the , which he describes as a “grown-up take on a ”, formed from crispy wafers layered with hazelnut chocolate ganache.
I could eat schnitzel for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
These desserts are staples for Eastern suburbs locals, but people also travel interstate to try 21 Espresso’s continental European specialties.
“Initially, it was mainly Hungarians and Austrians,” George says. “Now we have people from all walks of life and backgrounds… There are a few customers left from my parent’s generation, there are people I went to primary school and high school with, and we get a lot of people coming in saying: ‘I used to come here with my grandparents.’”
21 Espresso’s burgundy bucket seats and fabric booths have also hosted former prime ministers Paul Keating and Bob Hawke, the late Governor-General John Kerr, actors Barry Humphries, Russell Crowe and Paul Hogan, and singer Jimmy Barnes.
You can dip crumbed mushrooms into blue cheese sauce at 21 Espresso. Source: 21 Espresso
“When my dad passed, a local newspaper honoured him as the King of Double Bay,” George says. “He was a character, and people appreciated and looked up to him.”
George and his kids, Michael and Cassie, bring the same warmth and joy as John to every meal and hope to continue his legacy for years to come.
Monday - Saturday 8 am - 9 pm
Sunday 9 am - 9 pm
Hunger for Hungarian food
Rakott krumpli (Hungarian potato bake)
