Exploring centuries-old Chinese influences on Filipino cuisine with Puto Biñan recipe

Philippine cuisine bears significant Chinese influences, notably apparent during the Lunar New Year. In addition to tikoy, siomai, pancit, and lumpia, puto is also a part of this rich culinary fusion.

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Puto Binan, is an iconic rice cake of Binan, Laguna.

You might think we are talking about a party. Perhaps a birthday or christening, or a housewarming? But that's just half the conversation. These dishes and many more are just some of the many Chinese food influences deep-rooted into Filipino cuisine through centuries of trade and cultural exchange.

Historical records show evidence through archaeological finds like Chinese ceramics discovered in various sites in the Philippines indicate trade relationships as early as pre-colonial era – 9th-15th centuries.

During the Spanish colonial period, Chinese immigrants from Fujian and Guangdong provinces, attracted by the lucrative trade opportunities of the Manila Galleon trade, arrived in large waves acting as merchants, middlemen, and artisans. Chinese communities flourished in Manila and other urban centres. These settlers brought their cooking techniques, ingredients and dishes further influencing Filipino cuisine.

We recognise these shared staples in food and culinary practices as we gear towards the Lunar New Year 2024, the Year of the Dragon. Pancit (noodles) symbolises a wish for longevity and is a staple in every Filipino celebration served alongside lumpiang shanghai - a favourite amongst Filipinos. Rice cakes, or puto, have become local staples served as merienda (or dessert), with variations in every region adapting numerous flavours and textures, from using pandan leaves to coconut milk.

Various puto variants exist, and one notable example is Puto Biñan
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Puto Biñan is honoured with the town’s agricultural heritage during Binan’s Puto Latik Festival celebrated every 15th of May.
Puto Binan, is an iconic rice cake of Binan, Laguna. This delicacy became a staple in the town, and its popularity led to the flourishing of many small businesses The rice cake is honoured with the town’s agricultural heritage during Binan’s Puto Latik Festival celebrated every 15th of May.

Recipe for Puto Binan

  • 200 grams (1 ½ cup) regular rice flour
  • 1 ½ tablespoons baking powder
  • 105 grams (½ cup) brown sugar
  • 350 ml (1 ½ cup) full cream milk
  • 1 tablespoon cooking oil

Toppings

  • 1 tablespoon condensed milk
  • 1 tablespoon melted butter/margarine (or ghee)
  • 50 grams each of Australian cheese: cheddar, brie, camembert
  • 1 piece cooked salted duck egg

Instructions

Place the cheese and salted duck egg in the freezer a day before for easy grating.
  1. Line a 7-inch (18 cm) pan with baking paper (or banana leaves if available). Place the lined pan in the bamboo steamer basket*, and set aside.
  2. Prepare your steamer: Add water to the steamer pot and Turn on the stove to medium heat.
  3. In a large bowl, mix all dry ingredients together using a whisk until all incorporated
  4. Add the rest of the ingredients and whisk until smooth, approximately 5 minutes.
  5. Pour the batter onto the prepared pan and place it in the steamer basket and cover.
  6. Cook for 10 minutes.
  7. Remove the cover, and brush the melted butter on top of the puto.
  8. Drizzle the condensed milk on top of the puto.
  9. Grate the cheese on top of the puto, then the salted duck egg.
  10. Cook for another 10 minutes (the top should puff up). To test if it’s cooked, using a skewer or toothpick, stick this in the middle of the puto - it should come out clean)
  11. Transfer to a serving dish. Best enjoyed while warm.
  12. Keep in the refrigerator and warm in the microwave to reheat for 30 seconds to 1 minute.
* If using a stainless steamer, wrap the lid/cover with a tea towel. The tea towel will absorb the condensation instead of dropping into the puto while steaming.

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4 min read
Published 16 February 2024 2:53pm
Updated 24 February 2024 10:29am
By Anna Manlulo
Source: SBS

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