Key Points
- Chefs in Australia are defying norms by exploring lesser-known Indian culinary traditions.
- Some chefs say value perception and the logistics of sourcing ingredients can pose obstacles for Indian cuisine.
- ‘Experiential dining’ is on the rise, research suggest.
For chef Helly Raichura, the decision to transform her Melbourne home into an exclusive dining space five years ago was not commercially motivated.
It was about wanting to offer what many traditional Indian restaurants could not.
Originally a pop-up venue, Ms Raichura's Enter Via Laundry made its name tailoring dining experiences for smaller group of guests centred around thoughtfully prepared homemade meals (known as 'ghar ka khana' in Hindi).
Indian chef Helly Raichura. Credit: Supplied by Helly Raichura.
Each month she opened up slots for 10-20 people to explore unheralded dishes from different regions of India.
She said the idea initially took root in 2018 among her friends and family, but later gained traction among a wider audience through word of mouth.
In 2022, she expanded her business by launching a bigger restaurant-style venue.
This venue also provides exclusive private dining experiences featuring 5- and 10-course menus charting speciality dishes from different regions of India.
"Our menu features dishes from various regional cuisines, ranging from tabak mazz (lamb ribs) in Kashmiri cuisine to eastern India's patra poda (prawns in mustard oil and coconut) and Mughlayi cuisine's bharta mahi (fish smoked and cured in ginger)," Ms Raichura said.
She said preparing such dishes requires extended preparation time and, at times, very specific spices, as with tabak mazz.
So every time I visit India, I buy quality spices ... I use fresh vegetables in my cooking and also carefully select utensils that complement the specific dishes I am serving.Helly Raichura, chef
"I pair the exquisite meals with a selection of wines," Ms Raichura, who has almost 25,000 followers on Instagram, said.
Helly Raichura's private dining venue. Credit: Helly Raichura
'Passion is crucial'
She's not alone among Indian-Australian chefs breaking convention.
Manpreet Sekhon, the owner of the 45-seat Elchi restaurant in Melbourne's CBD, has been consistently adding innovative dishes to the menu over the course of several years.
Manpreet Sekhon, who runs a 45-seat restaurant in Melbourne, with a dish called Daulat (which means wealth) ki chat. Credit: Manpreet Sekhon
"There seems to be a growing trend of guests seeking regional cuisines and unique dishes as people become more adventurous in their culinary preferences," she added.
I think people, even from the broader community, are now discovering a diverse range of Indian cuisine beyond well-known dishes such as butter chicken or samosas.Manpreet Sekhon, restaurant owner
Among the pioneers of this push into regional cuisine were Sanjay and Sunita Kumar, whose Canberra restaurant Daana was recognised with numerous accolades prior to closing earlier this year.
Before shifting their attention to a multi-purpose function hall recently, they spent seven years spotlighting dishes from various regions of India, including Kashmiri and North Eastern cuisines, through a menu that changed monthly.
Sanjay (L) and his wife Sunita run a food business in Canberra. Credit: Sunita Kumar
"My wife and I share a deep enthusiasm for food, and I believe that passion is crucial. Nevertheless, offering speciality dishes to smaller number of guests might not be as commercially feasible as a traditional restaurant," he added.
Obstacles to growth
According to Ms Raichura, the trend of serving niche Indian meals in exclusive dining formats is yet to really take off.
Part of that might be down to perception of value, she claimed.
The challenge is the pricing. What is evident is that while individuals are willing to shell out a significant amount for an Italian dining experience, they are not quite prepared to do the same for an Indian dining experience.Helly Raichura, chef
Ms Raichura acknowledged that offering esoteric meals to guests does come at an elevated cost as compared to more popular dishes.
"I feel customers struggle to rationalise spending over $200 per person on Indian cuisine, frequently compare it to restaurant prices where dishes are cheaper," she remarked.
Chef Helly Raichura's venue Credit: Chef Helly Raichura
"It also involves training the staff on new recipes and procedures while managing customer expectations and providing clear communication about the changes," she added.
Mr Kumar, meanwhile, said he sees his role as an Indian chef in Australia as educating the broader community about authentic and regional Indian cuisine.
Last year, Canberra-based Daana was named Australia's best Indian restaurant in the Restaurant & Catering Hostplus Awards for Excellence. Credit: Supplied by Sunita Kumar
Emerging dining trends post COVID-19
Food Industry Foresight (FIFO) is an Australian organisation that provides data and research on the food industry.
The propensity of Australians to eat out is among the highest in the world, according to Food Industry Foresight. Credit: Alina555/Getty Images
"The propensity of Australians to eat out is among the highest in the world and the pandemic has changed nothing in terms of how Australians love to eat outside," she added.
She mentioned the , which found that Indian cuisine ranked fifth in popularity among diners in the country, with Australian cuisine and Chinese cuisine taking the top two spots.
Food Industry Foresight's Talking Trends Fine Dining report 2023. Credit: Food Industry Foresight
One post-COVID trend noted by the study was 'experiential dining', with 40 per cent of diners seeking venues for special occasions, desiring memorable experiences with multiple courses or pairings.
The study also found that almost 46 per cent of diners were more 'adventurous' when it came to dining out and ordering different meals, and 16 per cent said they would be happy to pay more for exclusive or limited edition dishes.
