Nightlife in Damascus isn’t likely to rival New York any time soon. But the city’s few bars and clubs are busy - and beer, wine and spirits flow freely just a few kilometres from where Islamist militias and the Syrian Army are engaged in fierce fighting.
But that’s Damascus – a war-time city of contrasts.
Five-star hotels are bustling with diplomats, NGO’s and aid agencies. There’s not much calling for the ballroom at the towering and plush Four Seasons these days, so it’s been transformed into an open plan office where aid groups co-ordinate their life-saving service delivery.
Mobile phone reception is near-faultless, shisha cafes are full and shopping precincts seem surprisingly busy.
While much focus in Australia has been on the refugees fleeing the war-ravaged country, there’s also a nationalistic and patriotic element determined to remain and see the war through. They desperately want to again witness peace in Syria.
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Journalist Obaida Hamad is one who sees leaving as an absolute final option, and while he’s able to support his family, he views staying in Syria as his duty.
“Homeland is not a motel - if you don't like it you can't change it. It's a "home land", it's in your blood, your genes,” he said.
Mr Hamad, originally from Raqqa (the IS stronghold in Syria’s north) understands that many people have little choice but to leave and respects their decision. And the father-of-two concedes his own position comes at a price.
“Every day when I leave my house and lock the door I say goodbye to my wife and my children as the last time, as the farewell, goodbye,” he said.
For the most part, the streets of central Damascus resemble many other cities in the Middle East – except for the check-points which relentlessly stop and check vehicles.
And there’s the power. Electricity cuts out without warning several times a day, and tourism – once a significant economic driver in Syria - is all-but non-existent. That’s felt most in the old city where many traders have been forced out of business.
SBS reporter Luke Waters in Syria. Source: SBS
Antiquities dealer “Pappa Joseph" Al-Qaymariya was forced to sell his shop and now trades from a small stall. The Damascene swords, antiques and mementos he peddles are of little interest to locals, so while the war continues his enterprise suffers.
“We have no business because we deal by foreign people, tourists you see. And for five years no business,” he said.
The unlikely but ever-present threat of mortars in Damascus is seen as the main concern. Many view it as acceptable risk, but not dentist Bahan Al Sharin. He has a brother in Australia and has applied for a visa to join him. He says the reason is simple.
“I leave Syria and go to Australia because my children not safe because bomb. When safe in Syria and don't bomb Syria I return for Syria. I love Syria,” Dr Al Sharin said.
For millions of Syrians, Damascus offers relative safety - about 5 million people now inhabit the city compared to around 2 million before the crisis.
It’s not perfect, but for the time being it's better than many alternatives.
SBS reporter Luke Waters travelled to Syria under government supervision.
